Cradled along Upolu's northern shore lies the peaceful township of Apia. Picturesque thatched-roof "fales" blend into the emerald-hued countryside. Jagged mountains rise above deserted beaches where trade winds sigh on coconut palms. Banana groves and bread-fruit trees gently ripen in the moist, tropical climate. Western Samoa's friendly, carefree islanders will welcome you and proudly show you the former home of their adopted son, Robert Louis Stevenson. This is a contented island where traditional ways hold despite the passage of time.